Hey everyone and welcome to the Summer Pathways Tee crochet pattern. I designed this top as I wanted to something to go with my high waisted trousers, shorts, and skirts. It also looks nice layered over a tank top. It is written as a crop top, but I will also provide some instructions on how to make it longer if desired. It also has 2 - 4.5cm positive ease.
If you would like to purchase the PDF and support my small business, then the pdf file is available here...
Written in US terms Advanced Beginner
Tools
6mm Hook (or any to obtain gauge)
Scheepjes Cahlista (or any similar weight yarn aran/worsted weight)
Stitch markers
Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
Tape measure for assembling
Sharp scissors
| XS | S | M | L | XL | 2XL | 3XL | 4XL | 5XL |
Chest (cm) | 71-76 | 81-86 | 91.5-96.5 | 101.5-106.5 | 111-117 | 122-127 | 132-137 | 142-147 | 152-158 |
Positive Ease (cm) | 2.2 | 2.5 | 2.8 | 3.1 | 3.4 | 3.75 | 4.05 | 4.35 | 4.7 |
Armhole Depth (cm) | 17.5 | 18.5 | 20 | 21.5 | 22.5 | 24 | 25 | 26.5 | 27.5 |
Est. Yarn Yardgae | 367m 400yd | 423m 460yd | 468m 510yd | 560m 610yd | 605m 670yd | 735m 800yd | 790m 860yd | 850m 915yd | 910m 1000yd |
Stitches
bpdc – Back Post Double Crochet
ch(s) – Chain(s)
chsp(s) – Chain Space(s)
dc – Double Crochet
fpdc – Front Post Double Crochet
rpt(s)- Repeat(s)
RS – Right Side
sc – Single Crochet
sc2tog – Single Crochet Two Stitches Together
sk – Skip
sk st – Skip Stitch
sl-st – Slip Stitch
st(s) – Stitch(es)
WS – Wrong Side
*……* - Repeat instructions inside the symbols
Notes
Ch3 counts as a stitch. It is helpful to place a stitch marker in the top of the ch3, so you know which stitch to go into when you come back to it on the next row.
Ch1 does not count as a stitch.
I will often refer to dc, ch1, sk st, dc in next st as a window chsp.
The stitch pattern repeats itself after every 3 rows. See below for guide to colour planning (if changing colours)
Construction and Colour Planning
This top is made up of 2 panels. One front and one back. They both work from the bottom up. The front panel will be where you add your neckline, once you have added the neckline, both front and back panel should be the same length. You will seam them both together at the shoulders and sides under the armhole. The sleeves are then worked straight onto the garment. The stitch pattern repeats itself over 3 rows with one row alternating between fpdc and bpdc. This is where it gets its texture. The row of fpdc is worked on the wrong side which pushes the stitches out onto the front and the row of bpdc are worked on the right side and push the stitches forwards.
Every 3 rows = 1 rpt.
For sizes XS, S and M there are 27 rows which means there are 9 rpts.
For sizes L and XL there are 33 rows which means there 11 rpts.
For sizes 2XL, 3XL, 4XL and 5XL there are 36 rows which means there are 12 rpts.
If you wish to make a longer top, then you will need to add on an extra 3 rows/1rpt until you reach your desired length (please note this top is only designed to reach your waistline as it might be too tight on your hips). If you decide to make a longer top, I will explain the neckline once we reach that part. Its super easy to adjust!
Swatch
The swatch is the same as the pattern.
7 rows x 15 sts = 10cm (using a 6mm hook or any to obtain gauge)
1st row (at the bottom) is dc, Top row is also dc (which has been pushed forwards by the next row). There will also be 7 window chsps within the swatch.
You will make your swatch bigger than 10cm to get more of an accurate measurement.
Ch and Row 1
Loosely ch 23, place a stitch marker in the last ch that you made, ch 4 more sts then count 2 chs back from where you placed your stitch marker and place a dc in the 2nd ch (this will make your first window chsp), *ch1, sk next ch, 1dc in next ch* rpt to the end. (11 window chsps).
Row 2
Ch3, turn, *1dc in chsp, 1dc in next st* rpt to end of the row, placing the final dc in the 3rd ch from your first window chsp. (Make sure that you have placed a dc in the chsp before you place your final dc in the 3rd ch as it might be easy to miss). (23sts).
Row 3
Ch3, turn, fpdc around next st, fpdc around every st on the row placing a dc in the final st which will be the top of the turning ch from the previous row. (23sts).
Row 4
Ch4, sk next st, *1dc in next st, ch1, sk next st* rpt to the end of the row placing the final dc in the top of the turning ch from the previous row. (11 window chsps).
Row 5
Rpt row 2.
Row 6
Ch3, turn, bpdc around next st, bpdc around every st on the row placing a dc in the final st which will be the top of the turning ch from the previous row. (23sts).
Row 7
Rpt row 4
Rpt rows 2 – 4 one more time which should give you a total of 10 rows for the swatch.
Right, now we have done that lets crack on with the pattern! If you completed the swatch, then you will now be familiar with the pattern rpts.
Pattern
St counts are written as XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL).
Back Panel
You will make the back panel first, that way you can check the length by holding it from your shoulders and letting it hang over your chest, as the front and back panel will be the same length once the neckline has been added to the front panel. If you’re happy with it, proceed to the front panel. If you want to make it longer, then you can add extra rows (which are multiples of 3).
Ch3 always counts as a st.
Ch and Row 1
Loosely ch 57 (65, 73, 81, 89, 97, 105, 113, 121), place a stitch marker in the last ch that you made, ch 4 more sts then count 2 chs back from where you placed your stitch marker and place a dc in that ch (this will make your first window chsp), *ch1, sk next ch, 1dc in next ch* rpt to the end. 28 window chsps (32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60).
Row 2
Ch3, turn, *1dc in chsp, 1dc in next st* rpt to the end of the row, placing the final dc in the 3rd ch from your first window chsp. (Make sure that you have placed a dc in the chsp before you place your final dc in the 3rd ch as it might be easy to miss). 57sts (65, 73, 81, 89, 97, 105, 113, 121)
Row 3
Ch3, turn, fpdc around next st, fpdc around every st on the row placing a dc in the final st which will be the top of the turning ch from the previous row. 57sts (65, 73, 81, 89, 97, 105, 113, 121).
Row 4
Ch4, sk next st, *1dc in next st, ch1, sk next st* rpt to the end of the row placing the final dc in the top of the turning ch from the previous row (with the st marker in it). 28 window chsps (32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60).
Row 5
Rpt row 2
Row 6
Ch3, turn, bpdc around next st, bpdc around every st on the row placing a dc in the final st which will be the top of the turning ch from the previous row. 57sts (65, 73, 81, 89, 97, 105, 113, 121)
Row 7
Rpt row 4
Rpt rows 2 – 7 until you reach row 27 (27, 27, 33, 33, 36, 36, 36, 36).
Now would be a good time to hold your back panel up against your chest to see if you are happy with the length. If you wish to go longer then you will need to add on an extra 3 rows/1rpt until you reach your desired length but remember this top is only designed to reach your waistline as it might be too tight on your hips).
Fasten off and weave in ends. (Tip – leave a long tail for seaming).
Front Panel
For the front panel you rpt the same instructions for the back panel but stop once you have completed row 24 (24, 24, 30, 30, 30, 30, 30, 30).
Do not fasten off unless you are changing colour.
Now you will work the neckline.
If you have made your top longer, sizes XS – XL will need to stop 3 rows before the end. For sizes 2XL – 5XL, you will need to stop 6 rows before the end.
Row 25 (25, 25, 31, 31, 31, 31, 31, 31)
Ch3, turn, 1dc in next st, 1dc in the next 16sts (19, 23, 27, 30, 34, 37, 41, 44). There will be a total of 18sts (21, 25, 29, 32, 36, 39, 43, 46).
Row 26 (26, 26, 32, 32, 32, 32, 32, 32)
Ch3, turn, 1dc in next st, 1dc in every st along the row placing your final dc in the top of the turning ch from the previous row. 18sts (21, 25, 29, 32, 36, 39, 43, 46).
Rpt the last row until you reach row 27 (27, 27, 33, 33, 36, 36, 36, 36).
Fasten off and weave in ends. (Tip – leave a long tail for seaming).
Sizes XS – XL will have 3 rows of dc for the neckline.
Sizes 2XL – 5XL will have 6 rows of dc for the neckline.
Next you will do the same for the other side.
Row 25 (25, 25, 31, 31, 31, 31, 31, 31)
Starting from the left side you will need to count 18sts (21, 25, 29, 32, 36, 39, 43, 46) heading towards the centre of the front panel. Place a st marker in the final st that you have counted.
Attach your yarn with a slst in the same st as the st marker that you have just placed, ch3, 1dc in the next st, 1dc in every st along the row placing your final dc in the top of the turning ch from the previous row. 18sts (21, 25, 29, 32, 36, 39, 43, 46).
Row 26 (26, 26, 32, 32, 32, 32, 32, 32)
Ch3, turn, 1dc in next st, 1dc in every st along the row placing your final dc in the top of the turning ch from the previous row. 18sts (21, 25, 29, 32, 36, 39, 43, 46).
Rpt this last row until you reach row 27 (27, 27, 33, 33, 36, 36, 36, 36).
Fasten off and weave in ends. (Tip – leave a long tail for seaming).
Assembling
Now you will assemble your top. Lay the back panel flat down with RS facing up. Next lay down the front panel on top of the back with the WS facing up making sure your neckline is at the top. The right sides should be facing each other. Place a st marker through the top corners of both front and back panels (make sure you remember to go through the top of the turning ch as that still counts as a st). Place another st marker on the last st of the neckline (on the front panel) and through the back panel. There should be 18sts (21, 25, 29, 32, 36, 39, 43, 46). Rpt for other side.
Now you can seam these two sections using your preferred method. If you left a long tail, then you can use a needle to go through both loops on both panels. Another method that I use quite often is a slst. Using your hook attach your yarn with a slst at the beginning of the section that needs seaming, continue to place a slst through each st until you reach the end. Fasten off and repeat for the other side.
Next you will seam the sides using an invisible seam. Turn your top RS out. You will work this seam on the RS, and it will push the seam to the inside of the garment. Place a tape measure down the side of your top (see pic above) and measure from the top down 17.5cm (18.5cm, 20cm, 21.5cm, 22.5cm, 24cm, 25cm, 26.5cm, 27.5cm) placing a st marker at the bottom of your measurement. This will become the armhole. Rpt for other side placing the st marker on the exact same row. Now would be a good time to gently try your top on and check that the armhole is comfortable.
Now you can seam the sides. I used the vertical invisible seam (see pics below) where you lay your pieces side by side and starting from the bottom left go through the top of the first post with your yarn and needle. Then go through the first post on the right side. Then move up to the next post on the left side and then the post on the right side. Rpt this process until you reach the stitch marker. Pull the yarn tight and secure the ends with a knot and weave in tightly. Rpt for the other side.
If you prefer a visual guide, then follow this link for a video tutorial - https://youtu.be/Qh1W-jH_8to?si=rZDznqne2b-3IQq7
Neckline
Notes - For the neckline you will attach the yarn in one of the top back corners. You will then place a sc2tog in each of the 4 corners and sc’s in between.
Ch1 does not count as a stitch.
With your top RS facing out attach yarn with a slst around the dc bar on the back right corner (see pic above) ch1, sc2tog so you will be joining the sts either side of the corner, 1sc in each st along the back neckline placing a sc2tog in the final st and across the corner (the 2nd part of the sc2tog will go around the dc bar).
Now we are on the dc bars and will be going down the left side. You will place 2scs around each dc bar. As you have just completed a sc2tog, the 1st dc bar will only need one more sc.
Going down the left side evenly place 4sc (4, 4, 4, 4, 10, 10, 10, 10), sc2tog (which will be the dc bar and the next sc on the front of the neckline), 1sc in every st along the front neckline until you reach the final st, place a sc2tog in the final st and the dc bar of the right side of the neckline, evenly place 4sc (4, 4, 4, 4, 10, 10, 10, 10) along the right side and join to the 1st sc with a slst. 54sts (58, 58, 58, 62, 74, 78, 78, 82).
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Sleeves
Notes – For the sleeves you will need to place 2scs around every dc bar.
Row 1
With your top RS facing you, attach yarn at underarm with a slst, ch1, 1sc in same st, place 2scs around each dc bar, continue you do this all around the sleeve, join with a slst to 1st sc. St count does not matter.
Row 2 – The Frill
Do not turn your work. Keep your top facing RS out.
Ch3, 1dc, in same st, *2dc in next st* rpt to the end (I placed an extra dc in the same st as my ch3 to close the gap) join with a slst to top of the ch3. St count does not matter.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Rpt rows 1 to 2 for the other sleeve.
Bottom of the body
Notes – Now you will attach your yarn at the bottom of the body and work a couple of rows.
Row 1
Attach yarn at one of the side seams with a slst (go through the top of the ch3), ch1, 1sc in same st, *1sc in next chsp, 1sc in next st* until you reach the next side seam, if you can, place a sc in each dc/ch3 at the side seam, *1sc in next chsp, 1sc in next st* rpt until you reach the side seam, place a 1sc in final st and join with a slst to 1st sc. St count does not matter.
Row 2
Do not turn your work. Keep your top RS facing out.
Ch3, 1dc in same st, 2dc in next st, 2dc in every st around the row, join with a slst to the top of the ch3. St count does not matter.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Drawstring and Tassels
For the last part of the pattern, you will make a large ch for the drawstring. I have not written a specific measurement for this part as it depends on where your top finishes on your body.
Make a large ch, keep chaining and placing around your body where your top sits until you are happy with the length, and you can tie it in a secure bow. I made a top in a size small and ended up using a ch of 150.
Now all you need to do is find the centre of your top and weave your chain around the last row of window chsps so that each side of the drawstring meets in the middle.
1. Cut 5 pieces of yarn 7” long.
2. Place them all together and fold them in half to create a loop in the middle.
3. Place your hook through the last chain on your drawstring.
4. Take your tassel and put the middle loop that you created over the top of your hook.
5. Carefully pull the loops through the last ch making sure each piece of yarn goes through.
6. Take your hook out and gently widen the loop with your thumb and forefinger. Then pull the tassel ends through the loop.
7. Pull each strand tight to neaten up your tassel.
8. Trim ends with sharp scissors. Rpt for the other tassel.
Now you should have yourself a gorgeous little summer tee!
I would love to see your makes! Please tag me on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok, YouTube and Threads @craftandacuppa using the hashtag #summerpathwaystee
This pattern is not to be copied or resold. Please do not use my pictures.
You may sell items that you have made from my patterns as long as you credit me as the designer. Craft and a Cuppa.
©Craftandacuppa 2021
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